Flavours of Isla Mujeres

While throngs of travelers go to Mexico to feast upon the buffet fare of all-inclusive resorts, for the past two years I've opted for the a la carte culinary delights of Isla Mujeres.

Isla is a very relaxed, laid-back kind of place and the food matches the island's personality.  The best dishes I've had there have been prepared quite simply, and highlight fresh, local ingredients.

Conch - a Caribbean mollusc that tastes similar to clams, but sweeter.  Try it as a deep-fried fritter, or in chowder or ceviche.

Isla Street Food

Wander over to the zocalo (or public square) in the evening and you will see several street vendors offering delicious and very affordable food.  Tacos will be about 15 pesos (~$1) each, and your crepe for dessert only 25 pesos (~$2).

Made-to-order empanadas, tacos and taquitos

Crepes with your choice of nutella, cream, caramel, banana and queso (cheese) as well as fresh churros right out of the fryer and dipped in sugar

Do as the Locals Do

Have a seat at one of the loncherias located outside the public market on Guerrero and have a look around. You'll see a great mix of locals and tourists who've discovered the best flavours and value on the island.  It's just good ol' home cooking, Isla style.

Never a shortage of smart customers at loncherias Alexia y Geovanny, San Martin or Poc Chuc

Huevos divorciados ('divorced eggs' - two fried eggs, one covered in salsa roja, the other in salsa verde) with refried beans, rice, fresh corn tortillas and watermelon water at Alexia y Geovanny - 45 pesos (~$3)

Wander Off the Beaten Path

Getting to La Lomita takes a bit of extra work to get there if you're staying on Playa Norte or the heart of Centro.  Trust me, it's well worth it.

I made the trek because Holly Eats  claims that the restaurant has the best chile relleno anywhere. I'll admit that I'd never had the dish elsewhere so I have little basis for comparison, but my taste buds delivered the only verdict that matters.  La Lomita serves up some serious deliciousness.  Just make sure you go with an appetite!

Sol served in a frosty mug

First course - sopa de frijole (bean soup), guacamole and tortilla chips

The piece de resistance - chile relleno.  A fresh poblano pepper, stuffed with cheese; battered, fried, and topped with more cheese.

Something Different

One of the most interesting dining experiences Isla offers is at Lolo Lorena's.  Each evening, Lolo serves up a sophisticated, multi-course dinner around communal tables in her garden.  Employing french culinary techniques, her menu changes daily and is heavily inspired by fresh, local ingredients.

I was disappointed when a reservation misunderstanding meant that I was unable to dine with Lolo on my first visit to Isla last year.  Her gracious offer to make it up to me by having me to dinner the next time I was on the island just bolstered my rationale for a second visit.  In my mind, one should never decline a dinner invitation, especially if it involves taking a vacation in the tropics.

Lolo's garden party

Lolo preparing our soup course

A rich seafood cassoulet with hollandaise

A beautiful selection of mini-desserts

After a fine meal, guests were treated to some fiery entertainment by the pool.

In the words of Anthony Bourdain...


“Do we really want to travel in hermetically sealed popemobiles through the rural provinces of France, Mexico and the Far East, eating only in Hard Rock Cafes and McDonalds? Or do we want to eat without fear, tearing into the local stew, the humble taqueria's mystery meat, the sincerely offered gift of a lightly grilled fish head? I know what I want. I want it all. I want to try everything once.”