Travel on the Rails

One common way to travel independently is by train. That is not often the
fastest way, nor the least expensive, and it can even be boring under certain
circumstances. At the same time, trains offer different experiences, many of
which are memorable. I generally prefer to travel by car so that I can stop
where I want and see as much of the countryside as possible. For night travel
and for longer distances, though, trains are often a viable option. The quality
of the accommodations varies greatly so one must be prepared for a bit of the
unknown. I have ridden trains on many occasions but will reflect on a few
notable excursions here.

      Sometimes trains can be the only way to
get from here to there. At least two of my trips fit that category including the
Copper Canyon voyage in Mexico and the colorful trip from Cuzco, Peru to Macchu
Pichu. The Copper Canyon train in Northern Mexico is a trip in itself. The train
skims right alongside the ridge of the beautiful Canyon for a good ways passing
through dozens of tunnels through the mountains. One can stop along the way to
explore several varied towns of interest. The indigenous inhabitants of the area
are mostly Tarahumara Indians, a shy cultural group many of whose members still
live in caves as they have done for hundreds of years. Hikes or horseback rides
along the edge of the canyon in the cool mountains are delightful activities.
There is both a local train and a newer tourist-oriented luxury option. The
local train still features armed guards between cars for protection from thieves
and the passengers are most often folks who live there. Colorful vendors laden
with snacks board briefly at each station. This was another instance of choosing
between serendipity and security. I rode the local train and my choice was one I
will never regret. The trip from Cuzco to Machu Picchu in the heart of Peru is
also quite beautiful. I was lucky enough to get a seat right in the front to
look out at the Andean countryside through a panoramic window. What a
magnificent couple of hours! Of course a trek over the Inca Trail would have
been lots more adventurous but my body was not fit for that at the
time.

      The train trip I remember most vividly however also traversed
Andean heights and it was the only time I rode on the top of the car rather than
inside it. That route starts in Riobamba, Ecuador and ends in the lovely,
colonial city of Cuenca. It is known as the Devil's Nose train because one of
the sharp turns in the mountains features a formation that has come to be known
by that name. You will have to decide for yourself if it deserves such a
designation. You grab a cushion, climb up the ladder on the back of the car,
settle yourself on the top where there is a low railing, and experience a trip
through the Andes like you never imagined. Along the way there are brief stops
at stations in small mountain villages where the passing of the train is the
highlight of the day. As I looked out at the residents of these isolated
villages, I could not help but wonder what life holds for them from moment to
moment in their high mountainous retreats. The ride itself was one of the most
thrilling travel experiences I have ever had. I would do it again at the drop of
a hat (or in this case, a sombrero.)

     And then there is India where
train travel is a very common and rather convenient way to go from place to
place. Just looking around at the folks in the station where you board the train
is an experience in itself. Porters carry gigantic luggage on their head.
Passengers line up dressed for business or farming. A first class ticket (a term
that stretches the meaning of the designation quite a bit) offers a sleeping
compartment that doubles as an acceptably comfortable cabin during the daylight
hours. If you are a party of one or two, be aware that the compartment contains
four beds which are very likely to be full before the train leaves the station.
As darkness arrives, the cabin is transformed. My wife has slept with many men
on such trains and it is not her favorite way to travel in India. One can meet
interesting people along the way, however, and the brief interludes at stations
in small towns offer more opportunity for interaction with residents than
speeding past in a car or flying over their homes does.

     If you
inquire, there may be some surprising opportunities on the rails in the area you
will visiting. Ofttimes, these are not heavily advertised so you may need the
knowledge of a good local agent to help you discover them. When we were in
Darjeeling in the north of India, we discovered what they called the "Toy
Train," a one car contraption with an engine fired by an oven in the very front.
It traveled through wonderful mountain countryside and stopped at tiny villages
along the way. If you think you might enjoy such an activity, ask about the
opportunities that exist where you are heading. There might be a happy surprise
in the offing.