Unparalleled Snorkeling in the Rivers of Mato Grosso do Sul

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Few places in the world appeal to one’s imagination or sense of adventure so strongly as Brazil. From the Amazon rain forest to Iguazu Falls, this country abounds with natural wonders and plenty of opportunities to revel in them. In fact, in the western state of Mato Grosso do Sul, not far from Brazil’s borders with Paraguay and Bolivia, you’ll find some of the world’s most fascinating sites for freshwater snorkeling: a series of rivers which lie a little off the beaten track near a tiny town called Bonito. Naturally occurring limestone aids in filtering the water as it bubbles up from underground springs and flows into waterfalls, rivers, and grottoes. The result is water so clean and crystalline, that many visiting snorkelers claim the experience is like swimming through an aquarium; indeed, the largest such body of water is known in Portuguese as the Aquario Natural, or the “Natural Aquarium.”

There is some healthy debate as to which river provides the clearest water or the most interesting fish; but this is mostly a question of assigning superlatives, and the waterways around Bonito offer that rare instance in which “you really can’t go wrong.” While the Aquario Natural tends to rank as one of the most popular attractions, the Rio do Prata and Rio Sucuri will also put you face to face with thousands of colorful fish of varying sizes. And although some unsavory reports of piranha attacks circulating on the internet might initially turn you off from river swims in Brazil, have no fear: piranhas would love to eat you alive, but they don’t live in these waters—the environment is too cold and calcium-rich for them to survive.

Which brings us to another interesting point: although some snorkelers spoiled by the warmth of Caribbean waters may at first feel a bit shocked by the comparative chilliness of these rivers, it’s really a small price to pay for a piranha-free environment with an abundance of visual stimulation ranging from mini eels to large, slow-moving golden fish, to tapirs grazing on the bottom of the riverbed. Most tour organizers also offer the option (for an added fee, of course) to take underwater cameras with you. These are not, however, tours for the faint of heart. You may want to consult with the tour operators or guides in the areas for more information about each local attraction. Visitors to the Rio Sucuri, for example, may encounter a lush growth of orchids . . . as well as large snakes on the riverbank. Know what you’re getting into—and what your personal limits are before you go. And take some time to appreciate the more whimsical and rare wildlife you’ll encounter between Bonito and the nearby rivers and waterfalls. You’re likely to view toucans, armadillos, howler monkeys, and capybara—the largest rodent on the planet, but much cuter than your common rat—along with a host of other animals you’ve probably only seen at the zoo or on TV, all of whom call this area home. While some attractions can be visited on your own, many require that you enter only with a tour guide. Most hotels and hostels will be happy to book tours and excursions for you. It’s worth checking out the Open Door Tours website (http://www.opendoortur.com.br/braziltours.asp?Cidi=2&CArq=2&am....

Bonito—your base for exploring these rivers and grottoes—is the kind of place that juggles a rapidly developing reputation as a lively eco-tourist destination with a small local population (less than 18,000) and an old-fashioned attachment to its many dirt roads. A host of accommodation options at all price levels abound, and visitors rave almost as much about the good Brazilian food they’ve eaten there as about the pristine waters and exotic wildlife they’ve seen. The town is fairly easy to access. After flying into Campo Grande, you can take Cruzeiro do Sul buses into Bonito (four buses run in each direction daily), rent a car to drive in, or simply arrange with your hotel or hostel for an airport transfer.

Tried-and-true:
Every traveler is looking for a safe place to lay their head, a good meal to fill their belly, and something to see that will justify having come all this way just to see it. Below are some no-miss options in Bonito.
Where to work up an appetite—Estância Mimosa, after hiking through the estate’s trails and splashing around in its waterfalls, come back hungry to devour a Brazilian-style feast delivered straight from the wood-burning oven. http://www.bonitoweb.com.br/estanciamimosa/
Sleeping on the cheap—Bonito Ecological Hostel Inn, part of the HI hostelling chain. Hammocks, a pool, bikes for rent, within walking distance to the center of town, and willing to organize almost any tour or excursion you can think of. Dorms, doubles for couples’ travel, and camping options. http://www.ajbonito.com.br/ingles/
Sleeping on a budget—Pousada Caramanchao, conveniently located and clean. The conscientious owner will book customized tours for you and go out of his way to make your stay both positive and memorable. http://www.caramanchao.com.br/
Sleeping in the Lap of Luxury—Wetiga Hotel, billing itself as the “best hotel” in Bonito, it has quite a reputation to live up to. Visitors tend to agree with the advertising—but then again, with room rates at five times the cost of an HI hostel double, it ought to deliver. http://www.wetigahotel.com.br/eng/

Written by: Dana
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